CCA Poles (SABS)

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CCA Poles
CCA Treated Poles in South Africa The inherent properties of wood are enhanced by modern forestry and preservation technologies. The species of trees that become poles are grown in managed timberlands to maximize their desirable characteristics.

Chromated copper arsenate (CCA) is a water-borne preservative with a history of over 60 years of safe use -- it was invented in 1933. CCA treated poles have gained in popularity as new formulations and favorable economics prompted utility purchasers to choose this waterborne treatment more frequently. The trend toward CCA treated poles is likely to continue rather than going away, and the production of CCA poles is expected to increase in the years ahead. Part of the reason for this ongoing demand involves the features of a CCA treated pole, and part is the incorporation of additives to the basic formulation. The CCA treatment is low in conductivity, low in corrosivity, and does not impair bending characteristics of the wood – all beneficial characteristics.

Poles properly treated with the newer oxide formulations of CCA are expected, based on on-going field and service tests, to last forty years and more. The oxide formulations are superior to salt formulations and are made from high quality oxide based materials. The complex chemical reaction during pressure impregnation results in the formation of insoluble chromates of copper and arsenic in the wood.

The wood becomes highly resistant to rot, decay and termite attack. Although wood preserved with salt formulations has the same wood preserving value, oxide formulation offers significant advantages, with respect to conductivity, combustibility and corrosion resistance. The proven ability CCA treated poles to provide decades of reliable service gives them a major economic advantage. Evaluation of initial costs versus an expected longevity of 40 plus years gives a decided advantage to CCA treated poles.

Cape Reeds
Thamnochortus. Another and the final example of restios or Cape Reeds, Thamnochortus lucens. This species is very common in the Western Cape mountains. It grows well in dry gravelly slopes and is often in small populations or locally dominant. The plants grow tufted on a short rhizome, often with tangled sterile clusters of culms at the base. Grows to 50 cm. Again the photographs above illustrate the sticking differences in the appearance of male and female plants of the same species!

The beautiful Thamnochortus genus have 13 species and most of its members grow well in coastal areas at the beach. Some species are very large and are commonly used to thatch houses. T. insignis is commonly used for this purpose because of its very long culms. One species, T. nutans is the exception and is only found above 600 m. It is endemic to Table Mountain and the Constantia berg.

Garden Edging - Installing Wooden Lawn Edging
Gathering Materials
You need string, wooden stakes, a 2-by-4 piece of lumber, hammer, sledgehammer, hand saw, garden spade, wheel barrow, level, 2-inch galvanized nails, wood sealer and the wooden edging itself. The most important thing to do when preparing materials is to buy edging that has been treated for contact with the ground. This will prevent the wood from rotting in a year or two.

Digging and Preparing the Trench
Prepare the trench for the edging to lay in. The trench should be dug out using a garden spade or hand-held hoe. The depth will depend on how tall the edging is. The trench should be deep enough to allow the edging to stand about 1 inch above the grass. Before digging, a straight line should be marked off using spray paint to serve as a guide. After the trench has been made, the 2-by-4 is used to firmly stamp the ground compact in the bottom of the trench. Before moving to the next step, check whether the bottom of the trench is level by laying part of the edging inside. Level any spaces that are too high and fill in any holes to make a flat, level surface. The sod and loose soil should be collected in the wheelbarrow.

Preparing the Edging for the Ground
Before being placed in the ground, the edging should be laid flat. Next, place wooden stakes on the edging 1 inch below the top edge. Secure the stakes to the edging using common nails and a hammer. Space out the stakes no more than 4 feet apart from each other.

Cutting the Edging
Some of the edging may need to be cut to fit the space. This can be done using a hand saw or circular saw. Make sure to seal the ends with a sealer after they are cut to prevent rotting.

Inserting the Edging in the Ground
Place the edging in the trench with the stakes facing the lawn or landscaping bed. Use the sledgehammer to drive the stakes into the ground. Use the sod and loose soil to fill in the space on the side of the edgers opposite the bed or lawn. Stamp down the soil to compact it into the ground and against the wooden edging.

Other products include.
CCA Poles (SABS) | Picket Fencing | Cape Reeds | Dog Kennels | Garden Edgings | Fire Protection | S.A Pine | Wendy Logs
 


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